Concrete playground

I had never been to the Alps so late in the year and was wondering what would meet me at 2050m in the village of Belle Plagne. Would icicles to be dripping their last drops?

 

The warning signs started at Lyon airport. The baggage hall was doubling as the venue for Easyjet’s birthday party. I was handed an orange ‘mocktail’ and similarly coloured flip-flops. Air-stewards wearing straw hats and Hawaiian lays are a pretty unsettling sight when you’re arriving with the intention of boarding.  
 

Although the terrain is impressive, the architecture is less so. Delights of chocolate box chalets were lost on the 1960’s planners of La Plagne and Les Arcs. But if you can see beyond the soviet -style concrete blocks then you’re likely to love Paradiski. It panders to those with a tighter budget but offers all of the advanced lift infrastructure of the more bling French resorts.

 

By the time the taxi was snaking its way up to resort, the green banks gave way to brown snow and eventually some patches of slush. I started to feel sick, and not just because of the winding road. What if there was no snow? All the Easter-skiing non-believers would be proved right. 
 

Good snow coverage was essential to ensure that we could take advantage of the five boardercross courses, two half pipes and two snow parks that the Paradiski area has to offer.  

 

Sure enough the snow was good, not just ‘good for spring’ but good for anywhere, any time. It's no wonder the area of Les Arcs and La Plagne has a reputation as a hotspot for snowboarders. The Vanoise Express, which has recently connected the two areas has created an area to rival the Trois Vallees. 

 

Bringing together the ski areas of Les Arcs, Peisey-Vallandry and la Plagne, the Vanoise Express has enabled skiers to conquer the summits of Bellcôte and Aiguille Rouge on the same day. The Vanoise has the capacity to carry 4,000 people an hour, though we had it virtually to ourselves in April.

 

For snowboarders who want to really push themselves, Paradiski offers a range of terrain. Les Grandes Pentes in Les Arcs is a good one for the end of season, a north facing nature reserve, which should be skied with a guide. The Combe de al Vellière above Champagny is fairly easy, and has some harder variations if accompanied by a guide. Arguably the most satisfying descent has to be the North face of the Bellecôte (shortest descent 2000m).

 

I experienced some great powder skiing at the top of the Aiguille Rouge. At 3236m it is the highest point in Les Arcs, apparently with a stunning view. It was snowing so much that I didn’t see a thing. But never mind, the boarding was better than the scenery anyway.

 

 

Food: As with anywhere over 1000m and with any snow coverage, food and drinks are budget busting. It is possible to find cheaper places to eat in Paradiski.  Fitting with the concrete blocks of the many satellite villages, canteen style restaurants are available in most areas. Chez Clarisse in Arc 1800 does a lunch menu for €13.50 which includes starter, main meal, desert and coffee. For those that know their tartiflette from their tarte au pomme – fine dining is surprisingly good in the area. Check out: ‘La Table des Lys’ in Arc 1950. 

 

Travel: With a distance of 2.5 hours from Turin and Lyon this isn’t suitable for a weekend break. Getting the train is a better option, as Chambery is only (!) an hour and half away. For those feeling credit-crunched, late deals are often cheaper, and booking early helps too.

 

Lift pass:  Paradiski Unlimited 6 days €249. Paradiski Discover 6 days €221. 

 

More information: www.lesarcs.com, www.la-plagne.com and www.peisey-vallandry.com